How to repair your home appliances easily
If you’re like most people, you hope to have to pay a repair professional when an appliance breaks down. After all, it’s pretty tough to be without a toaster or clothes dryer for very long, and many people don’t have a clue where to start looking for the problem. However surprisingly, most common appliance breakdowns are easy to diagnose and fix. With little over a cheap multimeter and nut drivers, you can do many repairs yourself and save hundreds of dollars. In this guide, we will explain to you how to discover and repair some problems you’re going to have with ovens and dryers.
The components for these repairs, not one of which will require over a few hours, are moderately priced. You’ll need the model number and serial number of the appliance to purchase components. To locate parts, check out the Yellow Pages under “Appliance Parts,” go online to a parts service, or contact the manufacture.
Before we start I should mention some basic requirements for these repairs, you will need these items:
- 4-in-1 screwdriver
- Nut driver
- Putty knife
- Wire stripper/cutter
- Wrench set
1-Gas Oven that is not heating
If your gas oven will not heat, first look for easy problems. Make sure the oven is plugged in and there is power to it. Our repair pro informs us he often “repairs” a toaster by plugging it in or flipping a circuit breaker. He still has to charge for the support call. Ouch! If you’ve got an older oven with a mechanical rather than a digital clock, then check to be certain that you haven’t bumped it off the manual setting. This can keep it from coming on instantly. If these solutions do not work, check the lighting mechanics before calling a repair support. There are three different mechanisms for light the burners in gas ovens:
A pilot light oven includes a little flame (pilot light) that must remain lit to ignite the burner. You can determine a pilot lighting oven by taking a look at the burner assembly, usually visible through the broiler drawer opening. You will notice a gas tube using a “thermocouple” mounted close to its tip. The thermocouple is a small cylinder with a thin aluminum tube leading to it. If your pilot light is out, refer to your cooker manual for light instructions, or call the local gas business. Few ovens finally have pilot lights, and we won’t cover repairs here.
If you turn your oven on and normally hear clicking, then you have a spark ignition pilot assembly. It’s a pencil-shaped porcelain tube with a metal tip on one side and a wire running to the opposite end. Since it, too, is less frequent, we won’t cover repairs.
3-Glow coil igniters
If your oven has a glow coil igniter (the most common type), You can spot it at the rear of the burner, When you turn on the oven, the igniter should glow brightly, signaling the gas valve to open and light the burner. If the igniter is bad, it won’t open the gas valve and your oven won’t come on. Begin by removing the oven stands and lifting out the metallic burner cap on the bottom of the oven compartment. Then follow the steps. Your toaster may look somewhat different, but the process is the same. This is also a good time to clean out the small holes in the burner using a stiff-bristle brush. Handle the new igniter carefully and avoid touching the dark gray element. Body oil will reduce the life of the igniter.
2-Electric Oven is not heating
If your electrical oven won’t heat, there is an excellent possibility the heating element has a poor connection or is burnt out. But before you dive into this repair, check to be sure that the circuit breaker (dual rod for 240 volts) hasn’t switched off. In case your oven heats somewhat and the light comes on, check the receptacle using a voltage tester (purchase at home centres and hardware stores) effective at analyzing 240-volt circuits. Call in an electrician when it’s not getting at 200 volts. If the circuit into the oven is great, unplug the oven, then unscrew the heating element and pull on the connections to the oven compartment. Coax the cables through the holes to avoid unplugging or damaging the relations. When the wires have pressure on them, clamp them using a clothespin to keep them from being pulled back into the hole. (Don’t worry if a wire disappears back into the hole; retrieve it by pulling out the stove and removing the back panel.) Inspect the links and search for charred, frayed or broken cables. If the terminal link is not bad, replace it. Make certain to obtain a particular “high-temperature” terminal (accessible from appliance parts).If the links are great, the heating element might be burned out. Installing a new element is simple. Simply connect the cables to it, slide them carefully back to the holes and screw the element to the back of the oven.
3-Gas Dryer’s Ignitor is not heating up
If your gas dryer is not heating enough to dry your clothing, first try the easy solutions. Clean the lint screen by washing it in warm soapy water to remove invisible fabric softener buildup. Clogged air passages can cause the dryer to close down. Also check to be sure that the vent is not clogged with lint in which it exits through the wallsocket. Finally, clean out the vent pipe by running a plumber’s snake during the outside port to the dryer opening. Tie a rag on the snake and pull it back through the port to remove lint buildup. If your dryer still doesn’t heat, ensure that the gas valve is open (handle parallel to pipe) and that the dryer is plugged in and receiving power. In most cases, one of those repairs will address the issue. All of the repairs we show are easy. You remove a screw or two and plug in a new area. The trick is figuring out which part to replace. Pull out to the lower corners of the panel to remove it. Some panels have been held on by screws. Then, with the drier plugged in and turned on, observe the igniter for clues. Ordinarily the igniter heats up and glows, igniting the gas burner. If the igniter does not heat up first test to get a burned-out thermofuse. The thermofuse is a security device that shuts off power to the burner if the dryer overheats. After the thermofuse burns out, it must be replaced. With the dryer plugged in and turned on, test for electricity to the burner. If there’s no power, unplug the dryer and pull it away from the wall and remove the back panel. If you have a flexible gas connection, you might be able to avoid disconnecting the gasoline. Then directly test the thermofuse and then replace it if needed. Also search for a charred thermostat and burned connections in the thermostats and if you find any, replace the thermostats, also. Reassemble the drier and test it. Replacing the thermofuse or bad thermostats should correct the no-power problem. If not, call a repair service. Secondly, try to find a bad igniter. If the evaluation in, there is power to the burner however, the igniter is not glowing, the issue might be a terrible igniter. The igniter is simpler to test and replace if you eliminate the whole burner assembly. If you don’t feel confident dealing with gas, call a repair service for this fix. Switch off the gas into the dryer and closed off the gas valve situated close to the burner. Make sure the dryer is unplugged. Then unscrew the large nut that connects the burner into the gas valve. Remove the two screws in front which maintain the burner assembly set up. There’s one extra screw below the burner that you might need to loosen or eliminate. With the burner assembly eliminated, test the igniter with a multimeter. If the multimeter test proves that the igniter is great, but it still won’t glow, it may be a bad flame sensor. Test the flame detector using a multimeter and replace it in case you do not get a reading.
4-Gas Oven’s Ignitor is not Heating ups
If the igniter comes on and remains on but the burner does not light, the fire sensor is likely stuck in the closed position, preventing any gas from becoming to the burner. A multimeter test won’t help here, so just substitute the fire sensor. Unplug the dryer for this repair. Finally, if the igniter comes on for around 30 seconds then shuts off and there’s no fire, it might indicate bad coils. The coils are electromagnets which open the gas valves once the igniter heats the flame sensor. Generally you can listen to the coils click if the igniter comes on. If the igniter comes on and beams but you don’t hear a click and the burner won’t light, then replace the coils. For all these repairs, when you find the problem part, remove it and take it with you to the appliance parts shop to purchase the right replacement. Then, following the necessary repairs, then reinstall the burner assembly. Gently tighten the nut connecting the burner to the gas valve. Then open both gas valves and test for leaks at the burner/valve combined by swabbing onto a solution of 1/2 teaspoon of dishwashing liquid to 1 cup of water. Watch for bubbles, which indicate a leak. If you see bubbles or smell gas, then tighten the link and retest. If this does not solve the problem, shut off both valves and call the gas company or an appliance repair service for help.
5-Electric Dryer is not heating up
First check to be sure that the dryer circuit breaker isn’t tripped and that you’re getting power to the drier. If resetting the circuit breaker does not solve the problem, the next step is to test the thermofuse. Unplug the dryer and pull it away from the wall. Unscrew the metal cap on the back and eliminate it. The thermofuse is situated on the rear of the dryer. Examine the thermofuse and then replace it if it’s bad. Also visually inspect the thermostats for signs of burning or bad connections and replace them if they appear poor.If you don’t find any other problems, check the heating element,If you do not receive any reading, replace it. The Kenmore dryer revealed requires you to lift the top to reach the bracket that holds the heating element cap. Some newer versions don’t need this measure. Many Kenmore and Whirlpool dryers look like the dryers shown, but if you have a different manufacturer, the heating element will probably be in a different site. Testing and these elements are similar.